The period known today as Rococo, followed by the sumptuous Baroque style from about 1720 to 1795. The word Rococo is derived from the French “Rocaille” for “Shell-shaped”, a recurring decorative element of this time, which reflects the elegant lightness of the era.
In the 18th century, the enlightenment and many important technological achievements such as the steam engine fall. Goethe, Lessing, Schiller, Haydn and Mozart live at this time. There are important new trends in architecture and painting and of course fashion.
Much nonsense has been written about the Rococo really, especially with regard to body care, hairstyles and fashion.
I can remember my history class, but who made boastful, conceited, and profligate noblemen from the late Rococo, so the time of Marie Antoinette, a phase of the flea-infested and smelly, who actually deserve to end by the French revolution on the scaffold.
And after the French Revolution was super comfortable fashion, hygiene and democracy discovered the people and everything was much better… Nonsense.
Comfortable feminine fashion is an achievement of the 20th century in the 1910s and 1920s. There are commercially available shampoo only since the beginning of the 20th century. You had to wash their hair with SOAP in the entire previous history or worse purifying substances and had then dull hair, so it washed only with water.
SOAP in its present form has existed since the 7th century, the Arabs have discovered it and it was used from then on very abundant for the body, especially in the Rococo with incipient industrial manufacturing of products.
People have washed is very probably regularly, by the way, as well as the people in the middle ages, represented as dirty and verlaust.
The time in which you are actually rather little washed in Europe, is about the Renaissance (1450-1600), because they thought that water would open the body for pathogens and could not otherwise explained the bubonic plague and cholera epidemics. Running water was however safe, which is why it has washed during this time.
In the Rococo begins, however, the enlightenment and new notions of hygiene and health. And the Rococo gave us the fantastic hairstyles and truly Royal clothes.
The Fashion in the Rococo
After the death of the Sun King Ludwig XIV in 1715, the fashion changed very since the fashion code, which was adopted for all other European royal courts fell away. Must have gone straight through the man’s world a relief, because the massive allonge wigs could be mothballed.
The young, clever Marquise de Pompadour, mistress and Adviser of the subsequent King Ludwig XV, influenced the custom policy, and gave the famous, lively touch architecture and fashion of the Rococo. This fashion was influenced by influences of the English nobility with his fondness for rural life and riding and hunting.
The main piece of clothing of the woman in the Rococo was a long dress, which was called in the early Rococo Countuche (robe). This robe is evolved from the manteau, which became popular especially in the second half of the 17th century.
The Countuche consisted of a skirt and in a thin coat (hence manteau), which ranged from the shoulders to the floor, had elbow-long sleeve and remained open in the front.
The lady was always including a corset, also as known cord chest and front with needles that pinned down a triangular so-called Plug. Fact that the robe was open at the front, seen both rock and plug.
The robe of à la française – so the French style dress was worn throughout Europe. However, in England, she had its own version, the robe of in English.
A festive gown was made of silk brocade or silk damask and was magnificently decorated with embroidery or grinding.
Completely handmade top was in the Rococo extremely expensive and valuable ornaments with top so showed the wealth and status of the wearer.
In all layers of the population, the women wore petticoats. From 1715, he was initially like a cone shaped, a little later, dome-shaped, and spreading. The form had great similarity with the used at that time on markets chicken transport baskets, hence the name of Panier (French)”Basket”). Against 1730, the Breading flattened front and rear to the ellipse.
From about 1750, you big, calf-length paniers were replaced by the so-called pals. The pals (from French poche, Pocket) were two separate sitting on your hip parts that were tied to a waist belt.
The extremely wide pals, which only allowed the wearer to go through doors sideways remained confined to courtly circles.
The French court etiquette dictated that beside the Queen Marie Antoinette to the sides a Chair had to remain free, so the maids do not covert it.
Marie Antoinette had a strong influence on the fashion of the late Rococo. Monthly fashion dolls to the European courts were sent from Paris to represent the Queen what had changed. Marie Antoinette was in particular the heavy Brocade fabrics by silk in pastel shades.
Before the French Revolution, first came the crinoline in civil fashion out of use and was replaced by the Cul de Paris, a rear chair cushion.
Women’s Hairstyles of the Rococo
The hairstyle was a Coronation of fashionable appearance in the Rococo. The hairdressers as the creator of the hairstyles were highly respected persons in the Rococo, called artists and often better paid than Ministers.
Their hairstyles were presented to the society ladies of so-called head-lending channels on the boulevards of Paris. Each Chamber maid saw himself on the art of styling and imitated the creations of the salons.
Wigs were not borne by the way rather Rococo by women, also own long and full hair was a criterion of beauty for a woman. Hair was of course always cheated. These were very expensive, of course from real hair and custom-made products.
The Court Salon of the Marquise de Pompadour had daily new hairstyle suggestions to make. She designed with numerous hairstyles were copied throughout Europe. In this period of the early Rococo (1720-1750) small ringlets hairstyles with flowers were powdered and ungepudert, in vogue.
Only in the high Rococo (1750-1780), the hairstyles were higher and more voluminous, so that wire frames, horsehair cushions, crepe hair and more hair pieces were needed.
1770 married the 15-year old Marie Antoinette, daughter of the Empress Maria Theresa, King Ludwig XVI. The famous imaginative hairstyles were created under her Scepter and the skillful hands of Hofriseurs Léonard Autier. Here is my tutorial for a ball hair of Marie Antoinette.
In the high constructions, motives should be to see such as a fountain, a starry sky, a toboggan run. Especially to comedy play and mask festivals, the salons took up like extraordinary ideas.
Wore to 1778 the Duchesse de Chartres in her hairstyle embedded dolls. A baby doll was their son, in the arms of his dolls nurse, entertained by a parrot and a black baby doll page.
Also historical events were presented. The famous hairstyle was created with the ship from 1777 friseur Autier, to celebrate the victorious French warship “Belle Poule”.
On the cake, flowers, pearl necklaces and ostrich feather completed the extreme, but always elegant and graceful hairstyles.
Was powdered to hide color differences between their own hair and hair pieces. Because the hair is not so often washed as it is today, no shampoo there even had, had also the same effect as dry shampoo powder today.
As a powder used strength, so potatoes, wheat or rice flour, which specifically has been applied with a small bellows on the finished hairstyle, before they embellished it. The powder could be moved with essential oils, fragrant and was not always white, but often with pigments grey, pink or bluish in colour.
In the late Rococo (1780-1795) , the hairstyles were significantly lower, but increased in width.
Hats worn again after the whole century through only the Bergère, a flat straw summer hat with broad brim for protection from the Sun and small domes and cones had played a role.
In the diagonally shaped Rosary hairstyle of Princess LAMBALLE, friend of Marie Antoinette, she should have smuggled 1789 letters of Queen from their heavily guarded prison. Thisasymmetrically shaped, powdered angular hairstyle is one of the last courtly French hairstyle creations of the late Rococo.
In the time of the revolution, the hairstyles were given then name such as “Nation”, freedom”or”Hussar”and were no longer powdered.
Makeup in the Rococo
The Madame de Pompadour to once again have set up cheek red before she did their last breath. Yes, the Rococo is make-up time.
You had but unlike today very little utensils – a few pots and cans, self produced content or by the pharmacist.
Why the makeup of the Rococo in the literature, is so incredibly negative as frozen, equally and exaggerated, not quite revealed me. In part, it is sure on the subsequent rule of the bourgeoisie that wanted to depose of the nobility and had to and the make-up is so verpönte after the French Revolution.
Because ever since men don’t even make-up. What now not more so true, so that the views of the Rococo also no longer quite so pejorative fails the. And then women have made up in the first place.
I personally like the style. The emphasis is on the red cheeks, red lips and eyebrows. The eyes, however, are not painted at all, which face look completely different, as it is used today.
The facial skin was mostly white powdered, what enhances the contrast to red for the mouth and cheeks. For greater coverage, you put pomade with white pigments and it stirred a cream. Powder also paste were however not really opaque, in this respect at the time hardly anyone looked like a clown. Where does just this nonsense? You can see that on the paintings of that time, as at that time was made up.
Nowadays much, much stronger, is painted, however, opaque, and through all layers of the population, because we have excellent, cheap industrially manufactured cosmetic products with high pigmentation.
The toxic lead white pigment was added to at the time often the primer, to lighten the skin and the opacity. However the knowledge prevailed in the Rococo slowly, that this usage caused health problems like tooth pain, bad breath, hair loss and skin problems and this was then not yet worth the thing.
Small black beauty spots of silk were very popular the entire Rococo about. In a small Bush the Lady held a series of differently shaped “flying”, such as Sun, Moon and star. The seat of the Pflästerchens glued-on mood and temperament of the wearer, the cavalier to have betrayed, so the corner of the eye for passion should have stood.
It has not worn beauty spots to cover off inflammatory changes in the skin due to old makeup. This is a completely stupid fairy tale that I actually read in a textbook!
White lead in the primer may cause obviously inflammatory changes in the skin.
And there was of course also pimples and acne in the Rococo. But no black dot or star helps all of these skin problems on the face. Since it would take then a mask.
The glorious idea to cover a single pimple with a beauty spots, one came at that time also guarantees, which has however nothing to do with lack of hygiene.
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