Stockholm sekiperaren His next door stands out with made-to-measure clothing from four different manufacturers and a total range of 2500 fabrics. Manolo hits the owner Lars next door to discuss your perfect-fit feeling.
His next door houses since its inception in 1949 on Birger Jarlsgatan 58. Today, the business of second generation next door by Lars next door and shop houses at the side of the underlay clothing from, among other things, Corneliani, Zegna, Boglioli and Luigi Borrelli also a first-class tailor shop with Annika Hed. Size sewn they have worked with since its inception. First, in cooperation with a manufacturer outside Gothenburg and then with German Regent.In the mid-70s, they began to offer size sewn from Ermengildo Zegna, and after that, the Italian manufacturers come to dominate the market.
-It is an area where the last decades happened very much. Not least, how the process streamlined. Sooner just took the letters time 14 days. With Zegna we enter the dimensions directly into a computer system and then it only takes a few weeks before the customer gets his suit, High-tension “.
For suits and outerwear are working next door at this time with four suppliers of size sewn; Cornelaini, Belvest, Ermenegildo Zegna and Mabro. The base price for a suit ranging from 9000 kroons for Mabros cheapest models to 17 000 for Belvest base models.
-When going up in price, that means that the garment generally has more hand sewn elements. Both Corneliani and Mabro offers a great foundation that is very affordable. Zegna has in my opinion a better range of fabrics, while Belvest keeps a slightly higher level of detail. It’s really about trifles, but watching it on your shoulder so you see that it has a bit more form. Then slice Belvest out each part of the suit for the hand making it easier for deals that come with small adjustments than if the parts are cropped by machine, says Lars.
-Overall, it’s all about the work and feel. Large parts of today’s clothing is very grateful to manufacture. Customers care exclusively about comfort, which makes garment parts sys unnecessarily large. It is enough to move the arm to the entire garment transport Better manufacturers can get to a neat shape with full freedom of movement. At the same time, it is good to see that a younger generation is starting to open their eyes to well-sewn clothing and look beyond the details that open the buttonhole, which you can get to on the Blazer.
How Is The Måttaggningsprocessen?
-Actually it is the same. Zegna and Belvest think I offer a little more opportunity. For example, you cannot reduce a armholes when sewing with Corneliani.
What Is The Main Argument To Måttsy?
-Only one such thing that you can compensate for the shoulders and the hips. Almost all have uneven shoulders. To adjust it after the fact is really awkward. Same thing with the hips which underlay clothing can do to press pleats fall awry. Then it’s easy to forget that there is always so much more expensive with size sewn. Often it is sufficient to add 15%, but that includes all the changes.
What Should You As A Customer In Mind When Choosing A Manufacturer?
-During work must be properly made with horsehair and vattulin. No glue. Try the brand’s ready-to-wear clothing to get the feeling. While it is always possible to adjust it is much better if the basic templates are good from the beginning. Some people simply fit better in some manufacturers. It is also something we are careful to point out from the beginning. We’re not going to sew up a suit if we do not believe that the result is good.
Which Parts Are The Most Difficult To Get To On A Made-To-Measure Suit?
-Chest is always difficult. Especially if you have high breast. It is possible to some extent offset by short brejdeln, but I may lack the breast cut which no longer offers manufacturers of måtsytt. Then you could detaljjustera the shape of the wearer.
How Much Is It Possible To Adjust If The Wearer Goes Up In Weight After Being Stitched Up His Suit?
-There is usually a size to take from. It is quite a significant difference to the custom which is 2.5 sizes extra to spend.
What Happens If You As A Customer Not Satisfied?
-We have the same ångerätt as for readymade curtains. It’s going to get it wrong, but then we compensate the customer. We usually do about having a måttflopp per year. Otherwise we say when we do not think it can be solved.
How Much Måttsyr You?
-I måttsyr approximately every two garments. What I have noticed is that I use the made-to-measure garments more and longer. Then it’s always fun to be able to grow a hallmark, as a certain inner lining or ticket pocket.
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